Pai to Luang Pabrang, Laos, Or The Booze Cruise Down the Mekong

On the evening of the 10th December I left Pai and headed to Laos - my visa to Thailand expires on the 13th - my first stay in Thailand was coming to an end. Still travelling with Ulli, we headed east by overnight minibus to Chiang Khong, Thailand northern most border crossing with Laos. The border at this point with Laos is straddled by the Mekong and there is no bridge spanning this point of the river. The crossing was done by speed boat. The first on my travels. The town on the (Northern) Laos side is Huay Xai, a very small town - Chiang Khong was no bigger. We stayed a few hours in a Guest Hostel which was included in our ticket as the border crossing did not open until 8.30am - Why then did I come to the Chiang Khong/Huay Xai border crossing and not the more popular Nong Khai/Vientiane crossing by bridge - Vientiane being the capital of Laos? Well, I was in the north of Thailand and secondly Huay Xai is the start point to catch a slow boat down the Mekong. It is a 2 day trip to Luang Prabang with a overnight stop in Pak Beng. Luang Prabang is the former royal capital. The Lonely Planet describes Luang Prabang as '...a tonic for the soul' with 'gleaming temples, French-era palace and villas' and 'it is a Unesco Heritage Listed' town. Indeed Laos has French influence and is the first country I have visited where they drive on the right. India, Nepal and Thailand have British influence and drive on the left. From Luang Prabang I can then head south to Vientiane.

We did not pre-book the slow boat in Thailand. From Laos immigration we just walked for 20min ito the slow boat pier - you can catch a speed boat and do the journey in 6hrs. The boat should have left at 11am but as in Nepal it left when it left.The boat carries normally 80 tourist/backpackers sitting on wooden benches. The guides say that there is no cushions on the benches. You can buy them before you board. I bought one and then found cushions on the benches. Luxury!

A slow boat certainly it is. You stare at the great scenery as you shudder down the Mekong. There are no major population centre along the river - really there is no major population centre in the north until we get to Luang Prabang - Luang Prabang has a population of 26,000. Thank god I had a few books. As the sun was setting, the temperature dropped. The wind was blowing in the side. Myself and most of the passengers left there coats and warmer clothes in the back pack. Not accesible during the journey.So wee all sat on the floor. This part of the journey lasted for about 1-1.5hrs. As the darkness moved in we arrived in Pak Beng, our overnight stop. Not much can be said about Pak Beng other to say that its there to cater for the tourists/backpackers. Full ofthe guest houses offering Banana Pancakes, Baguettes and Beer. Also the electricity is only available between 7pm-10pm - there is a curfew for the Laos people of midnight. In the guest house I stayed in, they did not bother to put light switches in the room!

In the morning, back on the board and we left at a reasonable tile of 10am. By now, we started to get to know other people on the boat. With 80 - mainly young backpackers - the slow boat down the Mekong started to be more of a booze cruise down the Mekong. As the river flowed, so did the alcohol. There was not much more to do. But it helped get people talking to each other. There were 5 Germans, 6 Brits, 2 French and a New Zealanders around me. The last few hours of the journey passed rapidly as 10 us played cards down the Mekong.

What then did I think of the Journey? Surprisingly it was never dull. With a good book and warmer clothes if you not in a hurry to get to your destination, it is a very relaxing way to travel. More space than a bus or train. Beautiful un-spoilt countryside. Well worth it.